Moussaka on a white plate

Moussaka – A Greek Classic, Updated

If you “think” you don’t like eggplant, this is a great recipe to try. Moussaka is a classic Greek dish, kind of like a lasagna but with sliced eggplant instead of noodles. I make this at least two or three times in the summer when the garden produces lots of eggplant.

Eggplant is one of those vegetables that many people have never tried. Which is a shame, IMHO. It’s very mild, with a flavor I describe as “green,” a bit like zucchini. Its texture is spongy, and it readily absorbs other flavors, kind of like button mushrooms. It’s also firm and meaty, even after cooking. Eggplant is widely used in Southeast Asian cooking, as well as in Mediterranean dishes like moussaka.

The Components

Moussaka is made up of three different components, which are layered before baking. Par-cooked eggplant and a spiced beef mixture are layered first, then a smooth, creamy custard layer tops it all off.

Traditionally the eggplant is fried in oil before layering, which presents two problems. First, eggplant is notorious for absorbing oil, and who needs all that added fat and calories? And second, even if you use two large frypans, the frying takes For. Ever. and requires your total attention. Instead, I bake the eggplant slices which lets me get the other components prepared at the same time.

Ground lamb is traditional in a moussaka, but it’s pretty pricey here so I use 90% lean ground beef instead. The use of warm spices like allspice or cinnamon with meats is fairly common in Mediterranean cooking. This recipe uses just a tiny bit of allspice, just enough to be “there” without overwhelming.

The custard is technically a béchamel sauce but it’s made in the Greek style and includes beaten eggs. The custard will puff like a soufflé, then fall when removed from the oven. To me, the creamy, light custard brings the whole dish together and works as a nice counterpoint to the eggplant and meat mixture.

Even though I’ve streamlined this recipe to cut down on the steps, it’s still a bit of a time investment. You can count on spending at least a couple of hours between all the prep and the baking. I usually make it on a weekend when I have more time (it reheats beautifully in the microwave). I should also mention that allergic reactions to eggplant have been reported, so do please proceed with caution.

Prepping the Eggplant

Begin by slicing the eggplant 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick crosswise. While the skin of the eggplant is edible, some find it hard to digest. So I usually stack the slices and remove most of the skin.

Lay the slices on paper towels in a single layer. I use a couple of jelly roll pans for this step since I’ll use them for baking the slices too. Sprinkle the slices lightly with salt, then turn them over and sprinkle the other side. This will help draw out some of the moisture and any bitterness. (Don’t sprinkle them too heavily. Use only about 1/4 teaspoon of salt per pan per side. Don’t ask how I know this.) Set the eggplant aside for a half-hour to let the salt do its magic.

Salt drawing out droplets of moisture on eggplant
If you look closely, you can see water droplets released by the salting.

Prepare the Meat Mixture

While the eggplant is resting, prepare the meat mixture for the moussaka. Start by adding a pound of ground beef (or lamb, which is traditional) to a large skillet over medium heat. Break the meat up into chunks with a spatula and add the onion. Stir and sauté the mixture for about 10 minutes or until no pink remains.

Drain the meat mixture to remove excess fat (I use a fine mesh strainer). Add the allspice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, pepper and tomato sauce. Stir to combine, reduce heat and simmer for about a half hour. It will reduce and thicken somewhat.

Bake the Eggplant Slices

By now the eggplant should have finished its resting period. Preheat the oven to 400° F. Remove the eggplant slices from one jelly roll pan and pat them dry with paper towels. Spray the pan with cooking spray, then return the eggplant slices in a single layer. Spray the tops of the slices with cooking spray. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes.

Remove from the oven, turn the slices over and spray them with cooking spray. Return to the oven and bake for 4 to 5 minutes more. Repeat with the second pan of eggplant slices. I usually blot the second pan of eggplant dry and oil them right after I put the first pan into the oven.

Make the Custard

While the eggplant is baking, make the custard. Start by melting the butter in a large skillet or similar pan over medium heat. When it has melted, add the flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt, stirring to moisten the flour evenly. (You’re making a roux.) Let it bubble for a couple of minutes just to be sure the raw flour taste is gone.

Add the milk slowly, stirring constantly. Continue to stir constantly until the mixture thickens and begins to boil. Let it boil for a couple of minutes, then remove from heat and set aside.

Custard for a moussaka
The almost-finished custard (just one more step to go).

Assemble the Moussaka

By now all the eggplant slices should be done. Reduce the oven heat to 350° F. Spray a 2 1/2 quart baking dish with cooking spray. Layer half the eggplant slices in the pan, overlapping if needed. Top with half the meat mixture. Add the rest of the eggplant slices, then the rest of the meat mixture.

Layering the eggplant, slightly overlapping
Eggplant slices layered into the baking dish.

By now the custard should have cooled down a bit. Beat the eggs (I use the same measuring cup I used for the milk), then add at least a half cup of the custard mixture and beat to combine. Stirring constantly, add this mixture back to the custard in the pan. It will take a bit of work to get it all combined,

Pour the custard evenly over the layered eggplant and meat mixture. Bake the moussaka at 350° for about 50 minutes, or until the top is puffed and slightly browned and the custard is set.

Serve after resting for 10 minutes or so, or refrigerate and reheat on the medium setting in the microwave (about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes usually does the trick).

Finished moussaka
The finished moussaka
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Moussaka – A Greek Classic, Modernized

If you “think” you don’t like eggplant, this is a great recipe to try. Moussaka is a classic Greek dish, kind of like a lasagna but with eggplant instead of noodles. Inspired by The Fanny Farmer Cookbook, 13th edition, and other sources.

  • Author: Evelyn Miller
  • Prep Time: 90
  • Cook Time: 50
  • Total Time: 2 hours 20 minutes
  • Yield: 6 servings 1x
  • Category: dinner
  • Method: baking
  • Cuisine: Greek

Ingredients

Scale

2 to 3 eggplants (globe or another type, about 2 pounds)

About 2 teaspoons salt, divided use

1/4 cup onion, chopped finely

1 pound ground beef or lamb

1/2 teaspoon allspice (you could substitute cinnamon if you don’t have this)

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

8 ounces tomato sauce (1 cup)

1/3 cup butter

1/3 cup flour

2 cups milk (not skim)

4 eggs, beaten

Instructions

Prepare the eggplant: Slice eggplant crosswise 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick, discarding the stem and blossom ends. If desired, remove some or all of the skin by stacking 2 or 3 slices and slicing off the skin. Line two jelly-roll or other flat pans with paper towels and lay eggplant slices in a single layer. Salt lightly, then turn over and salt the other side lightly. Set aside to rest for about a half-hour.

Prepare the meat mixture: In a 12-inch skillet or similar pan over medium heat, add the ground beef or lamb and break it up with a spatula. Add the chopped onion; stir and cook, further breaking the meat up into fine pieces, about 10 minutes or until no pink remains. Drain in a fine colander and return to the pan.

Add the allspice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, ground pepper, and tomato sauce to the beef mixture, stirring to combine. Reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.

Bake the eggplant: Preheat the oven to 400° F. When eggplant has rested for 30 minutes, pat the slices dry and remove them from the first pan. Spray the pan with cooking spray and lay the reserved eggplant in a single layer. Spray the tops of the slices with more cooking spray, then bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from oven, turn the slices over, and spray again with cooking spray. Return to the oven to bake for another 4 to 5 minutes. Repeat with the other pan of eggplant slices.

Make the custard: Melt the butter in a 12-inch skillet or similar pan over medium heat. Add the flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir to ensure all flour is evenly coated. Let the mixture bubble and cook for a couple of minutes, then slowly add the milk, stirring constantly. Continue to stir constantly for 5 to 8 minutes, or until mixture begins to boil. Stir and boil for 1 to 2 minutes, then remove from heat and set aside.

Begin layering the moussaka: Spray a 2 1/2 quart baking dish with cooking spray. Layer half the eggplant in the dish, overlapping slightly if needed. Top with half the meat mixture, spreading it evenly, then layer in the rest of the eggplant slices, overlapping if needed. Top with the remaining meat mixture, spreading it evenly.

Finish the custard: Beat the eggs, then add about a half-cup of the warm custard mixture and beat to combine well. Pour the egg mixture into the pan containing the custard mixture, beating or whisking constantly until the mixture is thoroughly combined. Pour the finished custard evenly over the layered eggplant and meat mixture in the baking dish.

Bake: Reduce the oven temp. to 350° F. Bake the moussaka for about 50 minutes, or until the custard is puffed and set and beginning to brown. Remove from the oven and let cool at least 10 minutes before serving. Store leftovers in the refrigerator. Moussaka reheats well; for each serving heat for about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes on the medium setting in the microwave.

Keywords: moussaka, greek, eggplant

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